Standing there, I was suddenly transported back to Italy: the smell of tomatoes simmering in the kitchen, the warmth of the sun, the rhythm of daily life centered around simple, beautiful ingredients. Pasta wasn’t complicated. It was pure, intentional and full of flavor. I realized that what was missing in that aisle wasn’t just quality — it was that feeling.
This was especially vexing to physician and bacteriologist Robert Koch, who, in seeking to culture his bacteria, “bent all his power to attain the desired result by a simple and consistently successful method,” wrote bacteriologist and historian William Bulloch in his 1938 book, The History of Bacteriology. “He attempted to obtain a good medium which was at once sterile, transparent, and solid” and got some results with gelatine.6 But gelatine is easily digested by many microbes and melts at precisely the temperatures at which the disease-causing microbes Koch wanted to study grow best.
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